Nefeli: Fairy Tale Skyrian by Iros Kounadi You ascend the Cycladic scenery from the port to Chora - don't be fooled, a little further up the landscape is covered in the green of the Sporades. You see it for the first time at a bend in the road, just before the entrance to Chora: a complex of white houses all curved lines and fuchsia bougainvillea. At first glance, of course, you don't realize that crossing its threshold, you'll find yourself in a parallel universe, full of flowers and trees laden with fruit, birds chirping as they flutter over the pool, and the rock of Chora, with its all-white houses, contributing to the perfect backdrop. Awarded the Ecotourism distinction for its ecological concerns, Nefeli is not just another luxurious but unremarkable 4-star hotel, and the description that wants its luxury to blend with tradition is not just another boring cliché. Far from screaming or glittering to get noticed, luxury here is hidden behind natural materials, airy fabrics, atmospheric lighting, organic produce, genuine smiles and simple, clean lines that sometimes follow local architecture and sometimes the imagination of the creators. Rooms with a view... five stars Around the pool -which as the only water resource of Chora gathers all its winged inhabitants, who are constantly chirping- spreads the five different "houses" that make up the neighbourhood of Nefeli. The hotel opened its doors for the first time in 1989, and since then it has been growing ever since, to propose another aesthetic, to cater for another taste. What to choose between the minimal luxury of the suite with private pool and the Skyrian Houses, designed like the traditional houses of the Skyrians, who, in order to escape the fear of pirates, had to squeeze together around the castle and fit their lives and their household into a few square metres? How to decide whether to prefer the Stone Building, whose rooms are decorated with fantastic antiques, or the Modern Stone Building, which combines clean lines and layered architecture with built-in canapés on its balcony and panoramic views of the Chora? The impressive room amenities include, among others, mini bar, satellite TV, hairdryer, fireplace (to tempt you to come in winter), wi-fi and of course the expected telephone, air conditioning and independent central heating. The hotel also has a lending library, room service, a 220 square metre seawater swimming pool, a garden with local plants and fruit trees, a children's pool and the only room specially designed for disabled people in Chora. Walks on the island Whichever room you choose, you're bound to find it hard to tear yourself away from your balcony or living room. Even the bathrooms, with their vibrant colours and striking architecture, seem made to keep you in - although the owners swear with a smile that they didn't do it on purpose, and that they try to encourage their guests to experience as much of their undiscovered island as possible, suggesting routes, activities and of course beaches to suit every taste. And in this, Skyros does not fall short in the least. When you manage to give up the warmth of your room, you will stroll along the stone cobbled streets of Chora, visit its interesting museums, Archaeological and Folklore, you will drive from the south to the north of the island to see the landscape change from Cycladic to tufted pine forests, hoping that somewhere you will catch the unique dog horses running carelessly, and you will dive on beaches with emerald waters and pine trees reaching the waves. Tastes and smells of Skyros On returning from your walks, you can sample traditional, local cuisine at the hotel's restaurant or by the pool. The daily specials rotate daily, depending on the ingredients available - almost all of which come from the privately owned farm in the north of the island, if you're wondering why the tomato in the rustic is perfumed all over the place, or why your meat is so delicious. This also applies to the delectable breakfast buffet, which is loaded daily with all manner of handmade delicacies: from local cheeses and egg rolls, to homemade cakes and chocolate logs, and from excellent pumpkin pies to doughnuts just out of the kitchen. An extra plus is that this latter is open, and communicates with both the restaurant and the outside, so you can see step-by-step the preparation of your meals - and take notes, so you can take some dog food home. In the evening, the atmospheric pool lighting contrasts beautifully with the country lights that come on one after the other, creating the perfect backdrop for stargazing from the giant sofas, or with the help of the hotel's telescope, and enjoying a wine from the carefully curated list. And, obviously, to devise the perfect plan for not leaving tomorrow-not the day after tomorrow, not a week from now. The Nefeli is open all year round. Prices in the August high season start from 110€ for a standard double room, and from 135€ for the traditional Skyrian House, which sleeps up to four people -of course, all prices include an excellent breakfast. Nefeli Hotel, Skyros, tel: 22220 91964  12/6/2012